<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" version="2.0" xmlns:itunes="http://www.itunes.com/dtds/podcast-1.0.dtd" xmlns:googleplay="http://www.google.com/schemas/play-podcasts/1.0"><channel><title><![CDATA[The Vanity Desk]]></title><description><![CDATA[Beauty products, beauty brands, and the stories they sell us. Run by Tess Aurore, founder of QUILL Media (2021-2023).]]></description><link>https://vanitydesk.co</link><image><url>https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!yisp!,w_256,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F301bafd8-4016-4342-a54e-968757ff7783_1280x1280.png</url><title>The Vanity Desk</title><link>https://vanitydesk.co</link></image><generator>Substack</generator><lastBuildDate>Thu, 10 Sep 2026 00:40:34 GMT</lastBuildDate><atom:link href="https://vanitydesk.co/feed" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml"/><copyright><![CDATA[Tess Dunn ✨]]></copyright><language><![CDATA[en]]></language><webMaster><![CDATA[vanitydesk@substack.com]]></webMaster><itunes:owner><itunes:email><![CDATA[vanitydesk@substack.com]]></itunes:email><itunes:name><![CDATA[Tess Dunn]]></itunes:name></itunes:owner><itunes:author><![CDATA[Tess Dunn]]></itunes:author><googleplay:owner><![CDATA[vanitydesk@substack.com]]></googleplay:owner><googleplay:email><![CDATA[vanitydesk@substack.com]]></googleplay:email><googleplay:author><![CDATA[Tess Dunn]]></googleplay:author><itunes:block><![CDATA[Yes]]></itunes:block><item><title><![CDATA[3 Drugstore Classics I Refuse To Stop Buying Despite Inflation Hell]]></title><description><![CDATA[And no, I don't get commission if you purchase anything, so you know I MEAN IT.]]></description><link>https://vanitydesk.co/p/drugstore-makeup-classics</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://vanitydesk.co/p/drugstore-makeup-classics</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Tess Dunn]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Sat, 15 Aug 2026 06:41:15 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/e3319e64-7769-46d2-adfc-4c1ca52b2f11_2316x3088.jpeg" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span>At this point in my life, I don&#8217;t care where I&#8217;m shopping for makeup from.</span></p><p><span>Usually, it&#8217;s CVS or Ulta, because I can&#8217;t be bothered to shell out a shitton of money for the bare minimum at Sephora. I&#8217;ve loved IPSY, but we&#8217;ve been on and off, and it&#8217;s becoming understandable why &#8212; the standard and quality just isn&#8217;t there for me anymore.</span></p><p><span>With the cost of makeup rising, it can be even more financially responsible to shop at a beauty store rather than the drugstore.</span></p><p><span>In fact, I&#8217;d even argue that the drugstore is now the back-up for makeup, rather than the cheap stop. Essence and Colourpop and elf sell makeup for $10 and under &#8212; why would I shell out $14 on a mascara from CVS?</span></p><p><span>Because it fucking works, it&#8217;s worked since it was launched and is still around 20 years later. That&#8217;s why. I hate to admit it, but inflation will not stop me from buying the following three classics that are forever seated in my makeup rotation.</span></p><p class="button-wrapper" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://vanitydesk.co/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe now&quot;,&quot;action&quot;:null,&quot;class&quot;:null}" data-component-name="ButtonCreateButton"><a class="button primary" href="https://vanitydesk.co/subscribe?"><span>Subscribe now</span></a></p><h2><a href="https://www.cvs.com/shop/maybelline-new-york-lash-sensational-sky-high-washable-mascara-prodid-2940028"><span>Maybelline Lash Sensational Sky High Mascara</span></a><span> (in black)</span></h2><p><span>An icon. Chef&#8217;s kiss. Arguably only beaten in icon-status by the OG Telescopic mascara from L&#8217;Oreal Paris. The pink tube holds a pitch-black formula, one that could only consist of parabens from the &#8216;80s and I would still wear it. My flat, straight eyelashes look like they&#8217;ve been curled, perhaps even lifted, extended, with just one coat of Lash Sensational. There&#8217;s no flaking or build up of black beneath my lashes, even when I swipe it along my lower lashes (I know! So Millennial of me! Sue me!).</span></p><p><span>It&#8217;s also universally known to </span><em><span>not</span></em><span> get the waterproof version. IYKYK &#8212; it&#8217;s just not as good. Don&#8217;t say I didn&#8217;t warn you.</span></p><h2><a href="https://www.cvs.com/shop/revlon-colorstay-brow-pencil-prodid-1280090"><span>Revlon Colorstay Brow Pencil (in 220, Dark Brown)</span></a></h2><p><span>This is one of my lower-key picks, one that doesn&#8217;t seem like it would be a ride-or-die pencil. Especially because elf is now selling theirs for, like, $3. But hear me out: this pencil glides on like butter, and it&#8217;s pigmented AF. There&#8217;s no smudgy, buildable color here: you are absolutely fucked if you press this bad boy onto your sparse brows and expect it to blend out.</span></p><p><span>I don&#8217;t know what it is about this pencil that has won me over so effortlessly, but I found it in a Dollar Tree when I was desperate and expecting the bare minimum to give me some semblance of shape. Voila! Found it here in Revlon! Even when I shape my brows, I add a few light dots to my inner brows to build them up and then buff them out. And yes, even though I&#8217;m nearing blonde, I still wear deep brown, because this pencil lasts 5EVER, like I said. Come at me.</span></p><h2><a href="https://www.cvs.com/shop/maybelline-new-york-superstay-matte-ink-liquid-lipstick-prodid-1420045?skuId=284028"><span>Maybelline SuperStay Matte Liquid Lipstick</span></a></h2><p><span>I discovered Maybelline&#8217;s SuperStay thanks to Taylor Swift. There was a Reddit post asking which red lipstick she used during the Eras tour. Someone mentioned the sold-out Pat McGrath lipstick she DOES, indeed, wear, but they also provided the SuperStay liquid lipstick as a dupe. And every day, I am SO grateful to that person.</span></p><p><span>I&#8217;m going to write a full article on this product, because it&#8217;s incredible, but you will never be able to pry it out of my hands. No other lipstick &#8212; liquid or otherwise &#8212; competes with this. And the shade range is GORGEOUS! Who would have thought I&#8217;d find out my neutral is a coral? Who would have thought I&#8217;d live on one coat for three days of an event, no re-application needed? Not me, that&#8217;s who.</span></p><h3><span>Inflation vs. Icon Status</span></h3><p><span>I don&#8217;t think drugstore makeup is controversial anymore, now that they&#8217;ve upped their ante and glamorized the beauty section (the way it deserved in the first place, but I digress). And I&#8217;m sure many will argue that prices have gone up BECAUSE these makeup products have survived all of the changes we&#8217;ve gone through in the past 30-60 years in the industry. In some ways, the mass mascaras and lipsticks and blushes have become mass-tige-worthy not because of their skincare-infused formulas, but because the formulas they have now have been built and re-built and re-built again &#8212; and they&#8217;ve stood the test of time.</span></p><p><span>At the same time, wasn&#8217;t drugstore makeup considered drugstore makeup because of its affordability/accessibility? Is the makeup sold in drugstores really drugstore makeup now?</span></p><div class="poll-embed" data-attrs="{&quot;id&quot;:995583}" data-component-name="PollToDOM"></div><p><span>It&#8217;s a longer discussion, one that I&#8217;m not entertaining at this moment in time because a bitch is tired &#8212; but I&#8217;ll get to it.</span></p><p>TL;DR: I<span>f you&#8217;ve been wondering what staples you can nab from the drugstore aisles at mass-tige pricing while also grabbing your medication from the pharmacy and a few snacks from the food aisles, Maybelline and Revlon have your back covered in the brow, lipstick, and mascara departments. You are so welcome.</span></p><p><span>xoxo<br>Tess</span></p><p class="button-wrapper" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://vanitydesk.co/p/drugstore-makeup-classics/comments&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Leave a comment&quot;,&quot;action&quot;:null,&quot;class&quot;:null}" data-component-name="ButtonCreateButton"><a class="button primary" href="https://vanitydesk.co/p/drugstore-makeup-classics/comments"><span>Leave a comment</span></a></p>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA["Clean" Beauty is BS. Here's What You Should Know]]></title><description><![CDATA[Clean used to mean something... or did it? Here's what you should know about "clean" beauty.]]></description><link>https://vanitydesk.co/p/clean-beauty-controversy</link><guid isPermaLink="false">https://vanitydesk.co/p/clean-beauty-controversy</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Tess Dunn]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Sun, 12 Jul 2026 09:10:50 GMT</pubDate><enclosure url="https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/30ddf2d3-c62b-4f3e-8cdb-21e9b67cc528_6421x3598.jpeg" length="0" type="image/jpeg"/><content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="captioned-image-container"><figure><a class="image-link image2 is-viewable-img" target="_blank" href="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!hDQ-!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9877ba3b-6e23-4de7-b689-0871f7db6343_6421x3598.jpeg" data-component-name="Image2ToDOM"><div class="image2-inset"><picture><source type="image/webp" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!hDQ-!,w_424,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9877ba3b-6e23-4de7-b689-0871f7db6343_6421x3598.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!hDQ-!,w_848,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9877ba3b-6e23-4de7-b689-0871f7db6343_6421x3598.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!hDQ-!,w_1272,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9877ba3b-6e23-4de7-b689-0871f7db6343_6421x3598.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!hDQ-!,w_1456,c_limit,f_webp,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9877ba3b-6e23-4de7-b689-0871f7db6343_6421x3598.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw"><img src="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!hDQ-!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9877ba3b-6e23-4de7-b689-0871f7db6343_6421x3598.jpeg" width="1456" height="816" data-attrs="{&quot;src&quot;:&quot;https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/9877ba3b-6e23-4de7-b689-0871f7db6343_6421x3598.jpeg&quot;,&quot;srcNoWatermark&quot;:null,&quot;fullscreen&quot;:null,&quot;imageSize&quot;:null,&quot;height&quot;:816,&quot;width&quot;:1456,&quot;resizeWidth&quot;:null,&quot;bytes&quot;:674853,&quot;alt&quot;:null,&quot;title&quot;:null,&quot;type&quot;:&quot;image/jpeg&quot;,&quot;href&quot;:null,&quot;belowTheFold&quot;:false,&quot;topImage&quot;:true,&quot;internalRedirect&quot;:&quot;https://quillmediaco.substack.com/i/206674927?img=https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9877ba3b-6e23-4de7-b689-0871f7db6343_6421x3598.jpeg&quot;,&quot;isProcessing&quot;:false,&quot;align&quot;:null,&quot;offset&quot;:false}" class="sizing-normal" alt="" srcset="https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!hDQ-!,w_424,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9877ba3b-6e23-4de7-b689-0871f7db6343_6421x3598.jpeg 424w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!hDQ-!,w_848,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9877ba3b-6e23-4de7-b689-0871f7db6343_6421x3598.jpeg 848w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!hDQ-!,w_1272,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9877ba3b-6e23-4de7-b689-0871f7db6343_6421x3598.jpeg 1272w, https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!hDQ-!,w_1456,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9877ba3b-6e23-4de7-b689-0871f7db6343_6421x3598.jpeg 1456w" sizes="100vw" fetchpriority="high"></picture><div class="image-link-expand"><div class="pencraft pc-display-flex pc-gap-8 pc-reset"><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container restack-image"><svg aria-hidden="true" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 20 20" fill="none" stroke-width="1.5" stroke="var(--color-fg-primary)" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg"><g><path d="M2.53001 7.81595C3.49179 4.73911 6.43281 2.5 9.91173 2.5C13.1684 2.5 15.9537 4.46214 17.0852 7.23684L17.6179 8.67647M17.6179 8.67647L18.5002 4.26471M17.6179 8.67647L13.6473 6.91176M17.4995 12.1841C16.5378 15.2609 13.5967 17.5 10.1178 17.5C6.86118 17.5 4.07589 15.5379 2.94432 12.7632L2.41165 11.3235M2.41165 11.3235L1.5293 15.7353M2.41165 11.3235L6.38224 13.0882"></path></g></svg></button><button tabindex="0" type="button" class="pencraft pc-reset pencraft icon-container view-image"><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" width="20" height="20" viewBox="0 0 24 24" fill="none" stroke="currentColor" stroke-width="2" stroke-linecap="round" stroke-linejoin="round" class="lucide lucide-maximize2 lucide-maximize-2"><polyline points="15 3 21 3 21 9"></polyline><polyline points="9 21 3 21 3 15"></polyline><line x1="21" x2="14" y1="3" y2="10"></line><line x1="3" x2="10" y1="21" y2="14"></line></svg></button></div></div></div></a></figure></div><p></p><p><span>For years now, clean beauty has been on the tip of everyone&#8217;s tongues. Consumers ask for the cleanest products, while brands claim to be &#8220;clean&#8221; &#8211; but of what, exactly? What IS clean beauty?</span></p><p class="button-wrapper" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://vanitydesk.co/subscribe?&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Subscribe now&quot;,&quot;action&quot;:null,&quot;class&quot;:null}" data-component-name="ButtonCreateButton"><a class="button primary" href="https://vanitydesk.co/subscribe?"><span>Subscribe now</span></a></p><h2><span>What Exactly Does &#8220;Clean&#8221; Mean?</span></h2><p><span>Think about it: we view the word &#8220;clean&#8221; as meaning no phthalates and no parabens, &#8220;hypoallergenic,&#8221; &#8220;dermatologist-approved&#8221; (or even &#8220;recommended), no sulfates, no palm oil, vegan, gluten-free, and more. But very few products are all of these things, which begs the question: what is a brand actually claiming when it says its products are &#8220;clean?&#8221;</span></p><p><span>I&#8217;m here to deliver some news you might not be ready for: </span><strong><span>there&#8217;s no actual, legal, solid definition for what clean means.</span></strong></p><p><span>Aka: clean is a marketing buzzword that companies use to claim&#8230; </span><em><span>something</span></em><span>&#8230; about their products. But unless you really do some digging, there&#8217;s no solid claim being made.</span></p><h2><span>The Different Types of Clean</span></h2><p><span>Because there are no direct guidelines or rules for &#8220;clean beauty,&#8221; </span><strong><span>brands can pick and choose what they mean when they claim they&#8217;re clean.</span></strong></p><p><span>Some get their label from Sephora, or Target, or Ulta &#8211; all of which have their own standards for what makes a product &#8220;clean.&#8221; For example: Target and Sephora both require products labeled as clean to be free of phthalates, parabens, and mineral oils. Target also requires products to keep out formaldehydes and certain synthetic fragrances.</span></p><p><span>Sephora, on the other hand, is stricter with its requirements for a clean label: the company has a list of 50+ other ingredients that can &#8220;dirty&#8221; a product, including acetone, hydroquinone, and sulfates. Even certain products with talc are heavily regulated for the &#8220;clean&#8221; label.</span></p><h2><span>When Marketing Runs With Buzzwords</span></h2><p><span>As a marketer, and one specifically in the beauty industry, I&#8217;m used to the jargon and loose rules one must follow to keep from clambering into legal-claim territory. Which is why I&#8217;m here to ask: </span><strong><span>Have you ever noticed all of the tiny asterisks decorating your product bottles?</span></strong><span> Your oil cleanser claims to remove 99% of makeup*; your vitamin supplements contain 0 grams of sugar*; your mascara is the #1-recommended mascara by dermatologists*.</span></p><p><span>Look at those little disclosures &#8211; half the time hidden in a box inside a box at the bottom of an ingredients list on the inside of the bottle&#8217;s sustainable* compostable* packaging &#8211; next time you go to wash your face, and you&#8217;ll see the twisting done with the use of one little star.</span></p><p><span>&#8220;Zero grams of sugar&#8221; = less than 0.5 grams of sugar, and carbs can hide in the ingredients list all they want. &#8220;Top-recommended brand by dermatologists&#8221; = top recommended brand in a survey of 10 dermatologists, not ALL dermatologists in the world (impossible, when you really think about it). And that removal of &#8220;ninety-nine percent of makeup?&#8221; Nice to believe, but it&#8217;s not a universal claim &#8211; the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) doesn&#8217;t regulate what 99% of removal is, so companies can claim this based on their own independent research.</span></p><h2><span>How Parasocial Relationships Build Brand Trust</span></h2><p><span>We value honesty and transparency in the relationships in our lives &#8211; romantic, friends, familial. With social media making it easier to access the lives of celebrities, brands, and influencers &#8211; and these people&#8217;s/brands&#8217; social media feeling personal, with behind the scenes videos and get ready with me Reels &#8211; </span><strong><span>parasocial relationships are becoming easier to form &#8211; and harder to spot.</span></strong></p><p><span>I find influencers &#8211; especially kind, warm, #relatable influencers &#8211; are the easiest to form parasocial relationships with. They open videos by saying &#8220;you guys, guess what!&#8221; They say &#8220;I&#8217;m gonna be honest with you&#8221; and &#8220;let me say something I&#8217;ve never said before&#8221; and &#8220;this is our little secret!&#8221; And the comments eat it up: &#8220;bestie yessss,&#8221; &#8220;I&#8217;d step on glass for you,&#8221; &#8220;omg what nail polish are you wearing you&#8217;re so slay,&#8221; &#8220;thanks Mom.&#8221; The influencer has made the viewer feel special &#8211; the viewer, and their three million other followers who saw the video, and the three thousand other followers who are commenting, too.</span></p><p><span>And that&#8217;s why, when a beloved influencer &#8211; no matter how large they are, from nano to macro &#8211;  recommends a product or becomes the face of a brand, consumers line up for the collab, or the limited edition release, or simply the product the influencer &#8220;can&#8217;t get enough of&#8221; on Instagram.</span></p><p><span>At the end of the day, relationships are built on trust. </span><strong><span>When somebody has entered a parasocial relationship, their beliefs and recommendations become as genuine and hold as much weight as a friend&#8217;s or cousin&#8217;s.</span></strong><span> And the brand they&#8217;re representing, without doing any heavy lifting (though, most likely, doing extremely heavy spending), has immediately garnered trust and credibility without saying or doing a thing outside of the usual. They simply have a kind face saying good things now.</span></p><div class="poll-embed" data-attrs="{&quot;id&quot;:770127}" data-component-name="PollToDOM"></div><h2><span>Question What Brands Sell You</span></h2><p><span>Good companies with good people will be transparent, partner with the everyday product user, rely on reviews from people who were </span><em><span>not </span></em><span>gifted the product, and be transparent when they make claims &#8211; I&#8217;ve worked with quite a few. And I&#8217;ll give you the real tea: a good brand will never claim they&#8217;re &#8220;clean,&#8221; period.</span></p><p><span>But I&#8217;ve also worked with some who view marketing as glorified sales &#8211; where brand awareness and trust isn&#8217;t about creating a community that&#8217;s loyal to the brand for its values.</span></p><p><span>No matter how you feel about a brand from its previous products, its social media posts, or the users who post glowing reviews, </span><strong><span>do your research when trying out new products.</span></strong><span> Stop use if it&#8217;s not working for you or causing negative side effects, like inflamed or itchy skin. Ask a dermatologist or even an esthetician for recommendations if you&#8217;re having trouble finding the right product, or if you have any doubts about claims or ingredients.</span></p><p><span>At the end of the day: rely on reliable sources. And don&#8217;t trust the word &#8220;clean&#8221; &#8211; because what&#8217;s in a word when it&#8217;s not regulated by the FTC, anyway?</span></p><div class="captioned-button-wrap" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://vanitydesk.co/p/clean-beauty-controversy?utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email&utm_content=share&action=share&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Share&quot;}" data-component-name="CaptionedButtonToDOM"><div class="preamble"><p class="cta-caption">Thanks for reading this post! Share it with your followers so they can get the beauty 411, too.</p></div><p class="button-wrapper" data-attrs="{&quot;url&quot;:&quot;https://vanitydesk.co/p/clean-beauty-controversy?utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email&utm_content=share&action=share&quot;,&quot;text&quot;:&quot;Share&quot;}" data-component-name="ButtonCreateButton"><a class="button primary" href="https://vanitydesk.co/p/clean-beauty-controversy?utm_source=substack&utm_medium=email&utm_content=share&action=share"><span>Share</span></a></p></div><p></p>]]></content:encoded></item></channel></rss>