"Clean" Beauty is BS. Here's What You Should Know

Clean used to mean something... or did it?

For years now, clean beauty has been on the tip of everyone’s tongues. Consumers ask for the cleanest products, while brands claim to be “clean” – but of what, exactly? What IS clean beauty?

What Exactly Does “Clean” Mean?

Think about it: we view the word “clean” as meaning no phthalates and no parabens, “hypoallergenic,” “dermatologist-approved” (or even “recommended), no sulfates, no palm oil, vegan, gluten-free, and more. But very few products are all of these things, which begs the question: what is a brand actually claiming when it says its products are “clean?”

I’m here to deliver some news you might not be ready for: there’s no actual, legal, solid definition for what clean means.

Aka: clean is a marketing buzzword that companies use to claim… something… about their products. But unless you really do some digging, there’s no solid claim being made.

The Different Types of Clean

Because there are no direct guidelines or rules for “clean beauty,” brands can pick and choose what they mean when they claim they’re clean.

Some get their label from Sephora, or Target, or Ulta – all of which have their own standards for what makes a product “clean.” For example: Target and Sephora both require products labeled as clean to be free of phthalates, parabens, and mineral oils. Target also requires products to keep out formaldehydes and certain synthetic fragrances.

Sephora, on the other hand, is stricter with its requirements for a clean label: the company has a list of 50+ other ingredients that can “dirty” a product, including acetone, hydroquinone, and sulfates. Even certain products with talc are heavily regulated for the “clean” label.

When Marketing Runs With Buzzwords

As a marketer, and one specifically in the beauty industry, I’m used to the jargon and loose rules one must follow to keep from clambering into legal-claim territory. Which is why I’m here to ask: Have you ever noticed all of the tiny asterisks decorating your product bottles? Your oil cleanser claims to remove 99% of makeup*; your vitamin supplements contain 0 grams of sugar*; your mascara is the #1-recommended mascara by dermatologists*.

Look at those little disclosures – half the time hidden in a box inside a box at the bottom of an ingredients list on the inside of the bottle’s sustainable* compostable* packaging – next time you go to wash your face, and you’ll see the twisting done with the use of one little star.

“Zero grams of sugar” = less than 0.5 grams of sugar, and carbs can hide in the ingredients list all they want. “Top-recommended brand by dermatologists” = top recommended brand in a survey of 10 dermatologists, not ALL dermatologists in the world (impossible, when you really think about it). And that removal of “ninety-nine percent of makeup?” Nice to believe, but it’s not a universal claim – the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) doesn’t regulate what 99% of removal is, so companies can claim this based on their own independent research.

How Parasocial Relationships Build Brand Trust

We value honesty and transparency in the relationships in our lives – romantic, friends, familial. With social media making it easier to access the lives of celebrities, brands, and influencers – and these people’s/brands’ social media feeling personal, with behind the scenes videos and get ready with me Reels – parasocial relationships are becoming easier to form – and harder to spot.

I find influencers – especially kind, warm, #relatable influencers – are the easiest to form parasocial relationships with. They open videos by saying “you guys, guess what!” They say “I’m gonna be honest with you” and “let me say something I’ve never said before” and “this is our little secret!” And the comments eat it up: “bestie yessss,” “I’d step on glass for you,” “omg what nail polish are you wearing you’re so slay,” “thanks Mom.” The influencer has made the viewer feel special – the viewer, and their three million other followers who saw the video, and the three thousand other followers who are commenting, too.

And that’s why, when a beloved influencer – no matter how large they are, from nano to macro – recommends a product or becomes the face of a brand, consumers line up for the collab, or the limited edition release, or simply the product the influencer “can’t get enough of” on Instagram.

At the end of the day, relationships are built on trust. When somebody has entered a parasocial relationship, their beliefs and recommendations become as genuine and hold as much weight as a friend’s or cousin’s. And the brand they’re representing, without doing any heavy lifting (though, most likely, doing extremely heavy spending), has immediately garnered trust and credibility without saying or doing a thing outside of the usual. They simply have a kind face saying good things now.

Question What Brands Sell You

Good companies with good people will be transparent, partner with the everyday product user, rely on reviews from people who were not gifted the product, and be transparent when they make claims – I’ve worked with quite a few. And I’ll give you the real tea: a good brand will never claim they’re “clean,” period.

But I’ve also worked with some who view marketing as glorified sales – where brand awareness and trust isn’t about creating a community that’s loyal to the brand for its values.

No matter how you feel about a brand from its previous products, its social media posts, or the users who post glowing reviews, do your research when trying out new products. Stop use if it’s not working for you or causing negative side effects, like inflamed or itchy skin. Ask a dermatologist or even an esthetician for recommendations if you’re having trouble finding the right product, or if you have any doubts about claims or ingredients.

At the end of the day: rely on reliable sources. And don’t trust the word “clean” – because what’s in a word when it’s not regulated by the FTC, anyway?